I like the look and characteristics of genuine Glass the problem being is it doesn't always fit 'out of the box'.
The solution?
For hobbyists such as Myself I found that a simple and inexpensive sharpening stone does the trick. Keep the stone wet under running water while rubbing the edge of the glass to be fitted along its length. Following the edge of the glass will help reduce any splintering.

Total investment $1.99 + tax from Sears.
Yes, the Glass is what You think it's for and No, it isn't.
: )
Hope this helped, carry on....
Great tip Fifth
Thanks
In reply to Great tip Fifth Thanks by Wayne Hanley
Yes, great. Most folks think you can just buy a new crystal and pop it right in. As far as glue goes I would recommend an ultraviolet glue for best results.
The glass is for this beauty, right? Shiver me timbers!!

Jay
In reply to Yes, great. Most folks think by vintagebulova.com
Horry frick! Is that real?! That's AWESOME!
Must be a Duber case ; )
In reply to Must be a Duber case ; ) by OldTicker
Is this the new thing now.... we're typing in ALL CAPS?! Are we REALLY EXCITED about glass fitting? muahahahaha!!
Jay - that's cool, right up there with the radiator, maybe even a bit cooler......
wow (in lc jerin, just for you)
sorry Mark but this post just went where you had no intention of sending it, gone for ever (shiver me timbers!)
Lol, Good tip Mark,
And if I may add, use lite even pressure and plan on making many passes on each side, because fitting real glass is no 10 minute job with a Whetstone.
Well, you must have alot of patience to parge a glass crystal by hand. I use a small wet stone grinding wheel used by stained glass hobbiests to polish the edges of their cut glass. I think it cost me about $60.00, works great and it's makes the job a couple minute deal.
Two types of crystal cement are GS Hypo Crystal Glue and SUC Rocket Cylinder Tube Cement. I prefer the SUC as it has a good flow, takes a few minutes to set up and forms a uniform seal to keep out dust.
Shawn,
agreed it takes patience but this method also gives greater control over the amount of material being removed (?)
I saw the wet wheel machine, really cool and may be adding one to My tool list in the near future.

$56 @ Sears
In reply to Shawn, agreed it takes by FifthAvenueRes…
Looks to be pretty solid? But unless it sports a smaller motor, and a FINE grit wheel (or they offer say a 600 gritt?) better MUCH... to get a "Flat Lap!"
:-) Scott
I won't say I didn't chip, crack, break or overgrind any when I 1st started because I did, lots of them. But once you get the "feel" for it, it's easy work. I also keep the bezel on hand to check and re-check until a perfect fit is obtained.
A "Flat Lap" with a finer, larger diameter stone, that is "solid state" (i.e. used, well made, and older = BETTER, w/less likelihood of vibration!) is the BEST way to go... A flat lap (maybe w/a 600- 1200 grit wheel?) will shave 2- 4 sides down (2x) in under ten minutes, with some practice... My friend David (a master watchmaker) uses this approach... He can fit a half dozen crystals (including adjustments) in around an hour! I intended to start doing this (among other related things) but the "economy" just won't scale, post 2008... So the "crystal gig" project will most likely soon be in "Limbo???"
I'm now beginning to list a BUNCH more of the Bully glass+ (x100?) on eBay today... Starting with "W" and working aback to the "As..." I still have about 70- 80% of the fancy shapes I had a year ago in stock... And more than a few of these model namesakes aren't even on this website yet, despite my having help ID close to 100 models here and elsewhere...
If anyone needs several glass and/or acrylic crystals... I can do 25%+ better than the regular eBay pricing, depending on what you need? The number I still have in stock?? And how many???
Best :-) Scott
In reply to A "Flat Lap" with a finer, by WatchCrystals.net
Scott. what you could do is put up a long term auction with no crystal specified, but name all brands that you have with contact info if that is possible, that way you can be searched by brand + crystal and be found, then contacted for specifics on a BIN basis so as to not upset e-bay...easier than listing all seperately (still could list some seperate of course) but would maybe get you some more hits other than just us Bulova nuts. Just a thought...
In reply to Scott. what you could do is by shooter144
Hey Chris,
THANKS for the input :-) (And I thought that might WORK, initially? BUT on eBay... no go!!) I actually have a neighbor who's a computer whiz... who MAY be listing another 1000+ as I frankly don't have the time to put up a boatload of crystals... (Been tryin' too... for - 3 years, now!) That being said... I just shot and posted (12) Bully letter "W" glass... on eBay! :-P
I have an auction listing idea (from 3 years ago...) to simplify getting another 1500+/- UP there... after I put 1000 with "photo IDs" up this month and next, MAYBE!? Then I'll SELL this "project," with or w/o the (launched?) .net website (with 2500- 5000 +/- listings, thereon???) Actually cleaning presorts, taking images, stocking inventory and pick/pack/shipping... and doing similar listings is EASY ENOUGH... I could do 50+ a day, on average... And after three years, I have 5x more IDs, than anyone else... (As I invested 8000/10,000+ hrs. into IDs...) But I need a new "challenge..."
Best :-) Scott
P.S. And what I meant by "scale" above.. was in reference to what I intend to soon EARN AGAIN! (i.e. Over a hundred grand, in 2012...) The (eBay+) crystal biz has $50k.+ potential... Or $100K. with glass+ change- outs (installs) and when ALSO adding rounds and perhaps also modern crystals, into the equation... I'm just burned- out on it!!! (eBay & IDing...)
i built a belt sander using one leg of an old time hand held cake mixer. it has 3 speeds, u can change the grit of the belt at will and does quite a remarkable job. faster than by hand safter than a wheel.j foley
Here's another method...I use a variable speed Dremel-type Mototool. Use the "polishing" wheel and a medium motor speed (the highest speeds will chip). Grind the crystal with the flat side of the wheel, not the edge. Be careful how you handle the crystal, as the edge you are grinding can get pretty hot!